"His energy was so f—ing intense,” pro climber Cedar Wright says of Potter in HBO's 'The Dark Wizard'
Credit: Andy Anderson/HBO
NEED TO KNOW
- Dean Potter was a prolific rock climber and BASE jumper until his 2015 death in a wingsuit flying accident
- He was nicknamed the “Dark Wizard” after his controversial climb of Utah’s Delicate Arch in 2006
- “There was something magical about the dude, but there was also this darkness that lurked inside,” pro climber Cedar Wright says in the four-part HBO documentary The Dark Wizard
Dean Potter was a prolific rock climber and BASE jumper until his 2015 death in a wingsuit flying accident in Yosemite National Park at age 43. He skyrocketed to fame following his appearance in the 2000 documentary Masters of Stone V and his 2001 climb of The Nose of El Capitan, and was later involved in several controversies.
Through it all, he gained a fervent following and the respect of his climbing peers.
Potter's life and death is charted in HBO's four-part documentary, aptly titled The Dark Wizard. In the second episode, airing April 21, multiple people discuss how the climber got his moniker and his “cult-like” following.
Credit: Heinz Zak/HBO
According to Potter's colleagues, he was nicknamed the Dark Wizard after his controversial 2006 climb of Utah’s Delicate Arch, a highly protected site where climbing was discouraged, though not illegal, at the time. The climb prompted a tightening of park regulations, public outcry and him being dropped from his Patagonia sponsorship.
While it appeared that the world had turned against Potter, some people remained drawn to him because of his unapologetic and anti-establishment attitude.
"It had been a couple of years since the whole Delicate Arch scandal where Dean had lost his hero status, but now he was something even better. He was a f—ing anti-hero,” a colleague recalls in the episode.
Rock climber and photographer Dean Fidelman says the controversy made Potter “even more like that revolutionary, that outsider, that outcast.” But the extra attention, he notes, made the climber become "somewhat paranoid, and he stayed within this very tight-knit, secretive group of people.”
“People worship Dean, and they followed Dean. I mean, we all did. His energy was so f—ing intense,” says pro climber Cedar Wright, while another climber remembers “the mystical parts” of Potter, who believed he had a connection with raven birds.
Credit: Eric Perlman/HBO
A different colleague notes Potter's similarity to the birds, saying, “They both had this Gothic doomsday vibe to them.”
“There was something magical about the dude, but there was also this darkness that lurked inside,” says Wright. Adds Fidelman: “That's why we started calling him the Dark Wizard."
Rock climber Leo Houlding says Potter "drew his strength from this dark energy," and Potter's friend Brad Lynch agrees. “The whole Dark Wizard thing and the magnetism around Dean was very cult-like,” Lynch recalls.
The Dark Wizard, directed by Peter Mortimer and Nick Rosen, premiered its first episode on April 14. The intimate series dives into Potter’s achievements in rock climbing, as well as his personal turmoils, including his strained relationships with his loved ones and his mental health challenges.
“As his accomplishments on El Capitan and Half Dome elevated him to hero status in the adventure sports world, his mental state began to fracture and his fierce competitive drive pushed him to try to outdo both himself and others,” the synopsis teases.
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The series features archival footage, experts from Potter’s personal journals and interviews with figures such as Potter’s sister Elizabeth Potter and rock climber Alex Honnald, among others.
The Dark Wizard, per the synopsis, “chronicles the triumphs, tragedies, rivalries, romances, and near‑death moments that shaped the life of a brilliant yet tormented artist and athlete whose imagination and audacity redefined what the body and mind could do.”
The Dark Wizard premieres new episodes Tuesdays at 9 p.m. on HBO. After airing, all episodes are available to stream on HBO Max.
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